Issue #158
Mattia Agazzi
La Scalata di Sapori
Growing up in the Lombardy region of Northern Italy, chef Mattia Agazzi has cooked in some of the most revered kitchens in the world, from the Cerea brothers’ three-Michelin-starred Da Vittorio, to Alain Ducasse’s Plaza Athenée, to Massimo Bottura’s Osteria Francescana.
In Mattia’s childhood, the family dining table was more than just a place to gather- it was a communal space of conviviality, brought to life by the daily celebration of food. While careful to respect the traditions that stem from the deep history of Italian cuisine, Mattia noticed how palates evolve, and dishes adapt.
His collaborative kitchen is a reflection of the intimate relationships he’s fostered with suppliers who grow food in a fair, ethical, and sustainable way. Under Mattia’s supervision, the restaurant would go on to earn a Michelin star within one year of opening.
I currently serve as the Head Chef at Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura Beverly Hills, working to foster a collaborative kitchen dynamic for my incredible team. I definitely consider myself lucky enough to still have fun in the kitchen after so many years. When I’m not in the kitchen, you can probably find me hanging from a wall while rock climbing or foraging and exploring the beauty of the Californian coast.
After a year and a half at Gucci Osteria in Florence, I was asked by Massimo Bottura to spearhead the forthcoming Gucci Osteria Beverly Hills. I’ve always been inspired by the playful, produce-driven nuance of the Californian coast, and was excited to explore how that can coexist with the age-old legacy of Italian cuisine that I grew up with.
One of my fondest memories in Los Angeles has been working with the Hollywood Food Coalition, an organization that aims to connect people through food, and give back to the community in a tangible sense.
Let me just say, I love these questions. It is the first time after so many years that someone is asking me to talk about what I do outside of work. This place is my favorite spot that highlights my all parts of California I love in one shot- the oceans and mountains together. When not at work I love to be comfortable, so this outfit reflects that. I never know when I am going to find someplace to explore or a wall to climb. It’s better be ready with some sportwear -it would not be the first time that I might decide to go for a hike and then end up on the top of a peak of some mountain like Idyllwild or Yosemite.
It’s inspiring to see so many Italians across the globe culminating in one spot in celebration—it reminds me of combining different ingredients to create one cohesive dish. Learning more about this project I, I felt a great deal of pride in being Italian. We are such a small country that is so rich in culture.
I take pride in presenting my heritage wherever I go—it’s an honor and a privilege to introduce our traditions to others in the kitchen, and to experience the beautiful harmony that emerges from the synergy between different cultures. On Rodeo Drive, I get to share my culture with guests from all around the world. When I talk to my Nonna about this I can feel how proud and happy she is to see this. To be able to win our guests over with a simple but sophisticated polenta taleggio and ragù is a dream. Years and years of tradition being served to someone from another country who uses corn flower in a completely different way than we do.
